{"document_id": 54375, "version": 6, "locales": [{"version": 18, "lang": "fr", "title": "Ar\u00eate NNW - depuis Susanfe", "description": "## Approche\nDepuis le [[waypoints/103958|refuge de Susanfe]], descendre jusqu'au torrent puis suivre une sente \u00e0 droite pour franchir un passage raide dans une barre (pas \u00e9vident \u00e0 franchir de nuit, \u00e0 rep\u00e9rer la veille). Le passage est en zigzag au niveau du point le plus bas. Queue de cochon en haut du passage. On peut aussi arriver \u00e0 ce point en contournant la barre par le bas puis en remontant \u00e0 gauche par des pentes faciles.\n\nMonter dans des pentes d'\u00e9boulis (sente, cairns). Remonter jusqu'\u00e0 une barri\u00e8re rocheuse et la contourner par la droite (c\u00e2ble). Une fois pass\u00e9e l'\u00e9paule, prendre la sente direction E dans le vallon morainique. La sente reste bien \u00e0 gauche en montant. On arrive alors dans un cirque o\u00f9 l'on bute sur une petite barre rocheuse. Gravir ce ressaut de 10 m environ en sa faiblesse qui am\u00e8ne au pied de la \"Grande Pente\". Deux points d'assurage au milieu de ce ressaut.\n\n[img=228292 left/]\nIl y a deux variantes en fonction de la saison.\n\n### Variante d\u00e9but de saison, avec un bon enneigement\nIl faut monter en gros de gauche \u00e0 droite, pour d\u00e9boucher au col juste \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 des crevasses. Il aura fallu franchir au mieux divers escarpements plus ou moins friables et raides.\n### Variante fin de saison, lorsque la neige dispara\u00eet\nOn rejoint le pied de la pente en prenant plein S et on remonte la \"Grande Pente\" de droite \u00e0 gauche pour rejoindre le col. \n\nUne fois le glacier atteint, se diriger plein E vers le col \u00e0 gauche de la Tour Salli\u00e8re (pt 3026). Le glacier est plat, puis se redresse juste avant le col (deux rimayes \u00e0 franchir suivant la saison), d\u00e9part de l'ar\u00eate.\n\n## Ar\u00eate\nComme dans toute la r\u00e9gion, le rocher est tr\u00e8s d\u00e9lit\u00e9. L'ar\u00eate est une succession de ressauts (le plus haut fait 6 m). Le premier bastion se contourne par la droite (W) et l'on rejoint l'ar\u00eate par une pente d'\u00e9boulis ou de neige. La suite de l'ar\u00eate se monte au mieux par le fil de l'ar\u00eate. Les ressauts se franchissent au mieux, sur le fil ou parfois un peu du c\u00f4t\u00e9 W, \u00e0 chaque fois quelques pas de III. L'ar\u00eate est \u00e9quip\u00e9e de 4 broches scell\u00e9es et de quelques spits aux passages cl\u00e9s dans la derni\u00e8re partie.\n\nItin\u00e9raire trac\u00e9 sur ces photos ; \u00e0 noter que dans la Grande Pente en fin de saison, il n'est plus question de passer sur de la neige, ou presque. Contrairement \u00e0 certains clich\u00e9s associ\u00e9s \u00e0 cette page.\n\n##Descente\nPar le m\u00eame itin\u00e9raire. L'ar\u00eate est \u00e9quip\u00e9e de broches pour franchir les ressauts en rappel de 20 m. Faire bien attention \u00e0 la mise en place de la corde et au choix de la ligne pour \u00e9viter de bloquer la corde. \u00c0 cause de la qualit\u00e9 du rocher, les broches sont bien en retrait.\n\nSi la face NW est en neige, \u00e0 la moiti\u00e9 de la descente, on peut aussi descendre en diagonale par cette pente pour rejoindre le glacier.\n\nLa Grande Pente se prend g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement davantage le long du glacier pour la premi\u00e8re partie de la descente, \u00e7a permet d'\u00e9viter des passages peu ais\u00e9s. On revient vers la droite plus tard. ", "summary": null, "slope": "40\u00b0 sur 150 m", "remarks": "- Course assez homog\u00e8ne, pas de difficult\u00e9 particuli\u00e8re, mais longue et exigeante. \n- Rocher d\u00e9lit\u00e9 assez m\u00e9diocre.\n- On peut allonger la course avec une petite variante: l'[[routes/55404|Ar\u00eate Fabien]]. Mais la course en elle-m\u00eame est d\u00e9j\u00e0 bien correcte !", "gear": "* Corde de 40 m pour les rappels sur l'ar\u00eate.\n* 1 ou 2 d\u00e9gaines\n* \u00c9ventuellement quelques friends petits \u00e0 moyens.", "external_resources": null, "route_history": "Premi\u00e8re ascension : inconnue.", "title_prefix": "Tour Salli\u00e8re", "topic_id": null}, {"version": 8, "lang": "es", "title": "arista NNW - desde susanfe", "description": "## Acceso\nDesde el [[waypoints/103958|refugio de Susanfe]], salir por la caba\u00f1a de Toilettes, luego al mismo S, pues remontar alg\u00fan resalte rocoso (no tan f\u00e1cil de pasar por la noche, notarlo la v\u00edspera de antemano). El paso est\u00e1 en revueltas al nivel del punto el m\u00e1s bajo. Cola de cerdo encima del paso.\nSeguir una senda de revueltas siguiendo SSE (hitos). \n**Temporario : hasta que la senda se haga otra vez.** al llegar a una \u00ab\u00a0ravine\u00a0\u00bb, el camino se pierde. Entonces hay que seguir en oblicuo a la derecha para volver a la senda.*\nRemontar hasta una barra rocosa y sortearla por la derecha (cable). Despu\u00e9s de pasar la loma, coger la senda direcci\u00f3n E en el valle morrenico. La senda queda muy a la izquierda subiendo.\nLlegamos entonces a un circo d\u00f3nde topamos con una peque\u00f1na barra rocosa. subir aquel resalte de 10 m m\u00e1s o menos en su debilidad que llega al pie de la \"Grande Pente\". 2 puntos de seguro a mitad de aquel resalte.\n\n[img=228292 left/]\naqu\u00ed, las dificultades de itinerario y de terreno aparecen de una forma m\u00e1s evidente. Hay 2 alternativas seg\u00fan la temporada\n\n### Alternativa de inicio de temporada, con mucha nieve, hay que subir m\u00e1s o menos de izquierda a derecha, para llegar al collado justo al lado de las grietas. Tuvimos que pasar a lo m\u00e1s f\u00e1cil algunas  escarpamientos m\u00e1s o menos friables y verticales.\n### Alternativa final de temporada, cuando la nieve desaparece\nllegamos al pie de la pendiente cogiendo al mismo S y remontamos la \"Grande Pente\" de derecha a la izquierda para llegar al collado. \n\nCuando en el glaciar, dirigirse al mismo E hacia el collado a la izquierda de la Tour Salli\u00e8re (punto 3026). el glaciar es llano, luego se endereze justo antes del collado (2 rimayas de pasar seg\u00fan la temporada).\nCuando en el collado, dejar crampones y piolet (si la arista es seca), y salir hacia la arista a la derecha llegando al collado (S).\n\n## Arista\ntal como en toda la comarca, la roca es muy deslizada. La arista es una serie de resaltes (el m\u00e1s alto es de 6 m). el primer basti\u00f3n se sortea  por la derecha (W) y llegamos a la arista por una pendiente de tartera. Lo dem\u00e1s de la arista se sube a lo m\u00e1s f\u00e1cil por el filo de la arista. Los resaltes se pasan a lo m\u00e1s f\u00e1cil algo lado W del filo de la arista, cada vez alg\u00fan paso de III.\nSerai peligroso evitar por el lado E el primer resalte que tenemos despu\u00e9s de sortear el primer basti\u00f3n (imposible de pasar). La mejor alternativa es dejar escalar el m\u00e1s fuerte en aquel terreno y asegurar con los qu\u00edmcios que sirven para rapelar.\nLa arista esta equipada con 4 quimicos y alg\u00fan spit en los pasos claves.\n\nItinerario trazado en esas fotos ; en la \u00ab\u00a0Grande Pente\u00a0\u00bb a final de temporada, ya no hay nieve o casi nada. De lo contrario a las fotos de esta p\u00e1gina.\n\n##Descenso\nPor el itinerario de ida. La arista est\u00e1 equipada con qu\u00edmicos para pasar los resaltes rapelando 20 m. cuidado al poner la cuerda y al elegir la l\u00ednea para evitar atascar la cuerda. Por la calidad de la roca, los qu\u00edmicos est\u00e1n alejados.\nLa Grande Pente se coge m\u00e1s a lo largo del glaciar para la primera parte de la bajada, eso permite evitar los pasos m\u00e1s f\u00e1ciles. Llegamos hacia la derecha m\u00e1s tarde. ", "summary": null, "slope": null, "remarks": "- ruta homog\u00e9nea, sin mucha dificultad, pero larga y exigente. \n- Roca deslizada que suele ser mala.\n- podemos alargar la ruta con una peque\u00f1a alternativa : la [[routes/55404|Arista Fabien]]. pero vale ya con el recorrido de por si !", "gear": "Cuerda de 40 m para los r\u00e1peles en la arista.", "external_resources": null, "route_history": null, "title_prefix": "Tour Salli\u00e8re", "topic_id": null}], "geometry": {"version": 7, "geom": "{\"type\": \"Point\", \"coordinates\": [770720.490519, 5801208.507249]}", "geom_detail": "{\"type\": \"MultiLineString\", \"coordinates\": [[[767904.664978, 5802707.228135, 2098.600098, 1719629498.0], [767736.357957, 5802517.130497, 2054.399902, 1719629757.0], [767626.227801, 5802479.318831, 2050.399902, 1719629842.0], [767585.368701, 5802431.48892, 2040.0, 1719629906.0], [767478.327003, 5802372.940722, 2031.800049, 1719629995.0], [767444.353953, 5802378.986735, 2029.599976, 1719630045.0], 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